At PizzArte, It Comes Down to the Hands
I understand why the metaphors between art and food work: art is "nourishing" to your soul; a chef is an "artist," his plate the "canvas," and so on and so forth. Unfortunately, these metaphors are such cozy bedfellows that they've all but become cliche. Which is why, when I first heard that a Neapo
I understand why the metaphors between art and food work: art is “nourishing” to your soul; a chef is an “artist,” his plate the “canvas,” and so on and so forth.
Unfortunately, these metaphors are such cozy bedfellows that they’ve all but become cliche. Which is why, when I first heard that a Neapolitan pizzeria/gallery had opened in midtown Manhattan — as in, an authentic, Naples-style restaurant plus a gallery space, so intertwined that the name, PizzArte, is a mashup of the two — my first thought was that this had to be a gimmick.
Thankfully, it’s not. I don’t think that the owners, a pair of gentlemen who were born, raised and educated in Naples, even have any idea that their new venture could be construed as such, thereby laying that suspicion to rest.
They’re just doing their best to give an authentic homage to the motherland, which includes pizza, art and good wine, naturally. In fact, art and food have been hand-in-hand from the beginning, says Anjelika Kour, general manager and fiance of one of the principals involved.
“Because what is Naples? Naples truly is art and food put together,” she muses. “This food they make, it seems so simple, but it’s so wonderful and artistic … Seeing the process of making pizza, everything with the hands and the way they place the basil. It’s a craft, truly.”
We’re sitting at a table in the upstairs dining room that has been appointed in muted whites, metals and grays that defer to the 24 pieces hanging on the walls. “The colors of the pizzas, the colors of the art, will compliment each other,” says Kour, noting that the intention of the decor was to let the art shine.
The first show at this unorthodox space is a series of paintings of Mt. Vesuvius and the Pulcinella, the traditional Neapolitan comedic actor, by Neopolitan artist Lello Esposito, who is currently showing in Venice at the Ca’ Pesaro. The artist thoroughly work the paintings with his hands, making it an obvious fit for the restaurant/gallery and its owners who appreciate well-kneaded dough. The art seems to reflect the restaurant’s own style and flair.
Downstairs, too, there is handiwork to be admired: the shiny, ruby red domed pizza oven in the open kitchen has been made by hand by craftsmen and materials, both brought from Naples.
I catch myself watching the hands of the pizzaiuolo, as he fans orange and green squash blossom leaves around the interior of a pizza crust, which will then be topped with diced speck, a Prosciutto-style ham, and small, round, white balls of burrata, a style of fresh mozzarella, to create the signature PizzArte pie. He finishes with a flourish, the placement of the basil.
It’s nice to see the union of food and art in an unexpected place.
PizzArte is located at 69 West 55th Street, near Sixth Avenue, midtown Manhattan.
