Matthew Jensen's Wonder Walk

Exploring the Bronx’s Pelham Bay Park on Matthew Jensen’s “Twin Island Wonder Walk” (all photos by the author for Hyperallergic)

Soon after my arrival in New York City, a longtime resident lamented to me that she was unable to find “one scrap of green” without being crowded by another person. True, much of the five boroughs is dense with people, construction, and noise. Yet if you take a train to the end of the line and walk a little, a different world is discoverable.

Matthew Jensen’s Three Wonder Walks (After the High Line) project is about exploring these overlooked edges of the city. As he notes in his accompanying, freely downloadable guide, the High Line in Manhattan “has proven that you can create a destination around the act of walking.” So, in this commission from High Line Art — organized in conjunction with the group show Wanderlust, which is currently installed on the elevated park — Jensen designed three experiences involving walking in three different boroughs, each based on the length and layout of the High Line path. Jensen has created similar works before, such as a walk along the low-tide shore of Brooklyn Bridge Park, and is working on a 2017 exhibition at the Visual Art Center New Jersey.

The guide for Matthew Jensen’s Three Wonder Walks (After the High Line)

The “Happy Land Walk” on Staten Island includes relics of a Victorian-era resort and freighter spotting, while the “Barren Island Walk” concentrates on old tarmacs at Floyd Bennet Field and the bottle-strewn Dead Horse Bay in Brooklyn. I joined the “Twin Island Walk” last Saturday, the last of Jensen’s walks organized as a group tour, although, as he told me, “it’s designed to be a solo experience.” In the guide, for each walk, he includes this disclaimer: “The following route is one of many within this landscape; wandering is recommended.”

After taking the 6 train all the way to its terminus at Pelham Bay Park and walking by the incredible Bronx Victory Memorial, whose 70-foot column is topped by a golden angel, our seven-mile round-trip (or five High Lines-length) exploration involved pathways both concrete and grassy, though human development was visible at all points. When we took to a traffic median, Jensen called that stretch the “most political” of the journey, as we forged our own sidewalk. “In that there is a statement,” he said. We found an unexpected ecology there, too, such as an elaborate nest in a tree and a poor woodchuck that had been smushed by a car. All along our way, the fall colors were in flame.

Matthew Jensen discussing Twin Island, while some people fish nearby

We were rare pedestrians on those streets, and as we stepped over muddy trenches and crossed busy roads, I was reminded that many of the most naturally beautiful areas of the city are not easily accessible by public transportation, although they should be. Fall and winter are considered off-seasons at Orchard Beach, the only public beach in the Bronx. Yet there are paths to explore, trees to admire, and, often, locals interacting with ths environment. People strolled the quiet boardwalk, fished from the rocky shore, and flew kites in the huge, empty parking lot.

The Wonder Walks guide is illustrated with photographs of the bundles of “artifacts” that Jensen collected along these paths, both plants and found objects. On our walk, he pointed out some of the same plants, like pokeberry, with which we stained our hands red, and ragweed, which has a pleasing smell if you’re not allergic. We carried a staff made of flora from the High Line, trading it between members of the group as an odd totem of another urban environment.

Every step of the trek was within New York City, and it felt both detached — with incredible vistas worthy of a Winslow Homer painting — and connected — with traces of Robert Moses projects, like the crumbling Art Deco pavilion at Orchard Beach, as well as views of sites like Hart Island, the city’s potter’s field. Whether in glacial erratics or the glint of weathered sea glass, Pelham Bay Park offered an incredible, tactile history of the city, and one that’s open to any urban explorer who takes the time to find it. As Jensen said, “This is so great, and we had to walk here.”

The Bronx Victory Memorial, constructed in honor of 947 Bronx soldiers who perished in World War I

Detail of the Bronx Victory Memorial, with the 18-foot “Lady of Victory” by Belle Kinney and Leopold Scholz

View of the Hutchinson River from Pelham Bridge

View of the Hutchinson River, with the Pelham Bay Landfill at right

Meeting one of the horses at the Bronx Equestrian Center

Making our own sidewalk through a traffic rectangle

Walking on a wooded median in an area without sidewalks

An elaborate nest spied in a tree on the traffic median

A dead bird on the traffic median

Glover’s Rock, a glacial erratic and Revolutionary War site

Rowers on Bartow Creek

Abandoned observation tower at Bartow Creek

The Orchard Beach bus stop, closed for the season

Orchard Beach Pavilion

Approaching the grand entrance of the Orchard Beach Pavilion

Off-season Orchard Beach

Colonnade of the Orchard Beach Pavilion

Compass on the ground of the Orchard Beach Pavilion

Colonnade of the Orchard Beach Pavilion

TheWonder Walks High Line totem at Orchard Beach

Off-season Orchard Beach, with a noisy seagull

A lost kite above the Orchard Beach boardwalk

Stone ruins of an old bridge that once connected Hunter and Twin Islands, the only remains of the Victorian estates that were torn down here in the 1930s

Arriving at the rocky shore of Twin Island

Stone formation on Twin Island

The grassy shore of Twin Island

Looking to Hart Island, New York City’s mass grave for the unidentified or unclaimed, from Twin Island

Columbia Island and Pea Island, seen from Twin Island

Quartz in the stone of Twin Island

Walking the rocky shore of Twin Island

Remains of a boat and some graffiti

Exploring the uneven terrain of Twin Island’s shore

Looking to Two Tree Island, which is accessible at low tide. It’s named for Joe Two Tree, who was said to be the last of his Algonquin tribe and took refuge here.

An old surveyor’s mark in the ground of Twin Island

Kite flying in the Orchard Beach parking lot

Wader who seemed to be searching for mussels in the Hutchinson River, with the Pelham Bay Landfill at right

Sun setting on Pelham Bridge as walkers return to the 6 train

The downloadable guide for Matthew Jensen’s Three Wonder Walks (After the High Line) is available online from High Line Art.

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Allison Meier

Allison C. Meier is a former staff writer for Hyperallergic. Originally from Oklahoma, she has been covering visual culture and overlooked history for print...