I know its naïve to think that anything is safe from advertising and branding these days. In fact, just two weeks ago Hyperallergic’s contributor Alex Cavaluzzo listed the top ten objects with unnecessary designer labels that included everything from the kind of expected (a Missoni bicycle) to the absolutely absurd (Cynthia Rowley diapers). While I shrugged off these items as kitschy designer ephemera, something about Ralph Lauren’s ad campaign for his new “dressed-down” label, Denim & Supply, rubbed me the wrong way.
Maybe it was this passage from the Denim & Supply Journal, which is really just a catalogue disguised as something more, that brought on the first waves of nausea:
Denim & Supply was born out of the warehouse and artist communities of Brooklyn, New York — young painters, poets, musicians and visionaries working together to generate a creative spirit in the middle of the city. Denim & Supply captures the unique, effortless style of clothes that live and breathe individuality. It’s something rare or weathered that you find along the way and feel connected to, instantly. Moody, eclectic & carefree, it’s the next generation of down-to-earth dressing.
While I realize that Ralph Lauren is simply trying to redefine his image as casual, cool and laid back, I could not get past how poorly the designer fakes it. The pages that follow feel almost like a Saturday Night Live skit of the Brooklyn fantasy that replaces real people and artists with models doing “artsy” things like playing piano, sketching in notebooks and doing card tricks, all while looking moody. The clothes themselves breathe nothing of individual style, but instead are trite and tired-trends (tattered jeans, plaid shirts and Native American prints) that Ralph Lauren attempts to inject new life into by latching onto the buzz surrounding Brooklyn.
While I see nothing wrong with drawing inspiration from a thriving artistic center, it’s the way that Ralph Lauren acts as if they are the ones who have discovered this demographic that bothers me.
The cover of the Journal sums up the company’s attitude perfectly. Four of the models saunter in front of a Brooklyn warehouse, which at first I took for the new Denim & Supply store. On closer inspection, though, the building looks suspiciously similar to the historic Tobacco Warehouse, just north of the Brooklyn Bridge, or at the very least one nearby onto which Ralph Lauren has Photoshopped “Denim & Supply” onto the façade. Considering Ralph Lauren’s obsession with turning streets of New York into his own kingdom (71st to 72nd street on Madison Avenue is lined with RL stores, including the Mansion and the newly built Chateau), his literal branding of a Brooklyn building is a move that marks the “warehouse communities” as his new territory.
The Ralph Lauren marketing team clearly did their research to try to blend into their new terrain, but the result is a bit like an out of touch parent aping the styles of their younger, and much hipper kids. In the “We Heart Brooklyn, NY” section of the Journal, Brooklyn hot spots like Roberta’s pizzeria and Journal Gallery make the list. Both are already well-known and possibly over-exposed to anyone familiar with Brooklyn. But the real zinger on this page has to be the top quote:
You’ve probably heard that Brooklyn is a pretty groovy place — not just because it was one of Ralph Lauren’s inspirations for Denim & Supply.
Yes, we’ve heard Ralph, and, no, it’s not because of you.
In an attempt to shove more “individuality” into the campaign, the online version of the Journal also includes a series of warehouse screen tests that introduces the models, or “creative friends,” as the RL website refers to them. The optimist in me thought that maybe, just maybe, these ridiculously good-looking people were working artists from Brooklyn that Ralph Lauren had decided to feature in the Journal. At least then the company would be attempting, however superficially, to support the community they are also exploiting, as ad campaigns often do. But clearly I need to be more cynical.
After watching a few of the screen tests, it seems that the closest affiliation these models have with art comes from “looking at architecture,” as Julia from Sweden says in her video, or philosophizing about individuals in society while pouting, like Thiago. It’s possible that these individuals are artists who have something to say, but Ralph Lauren is less than interested.
The branding of Brooklyn is, of course, not a novel thing. In 2007 the Gap came out with the “Williamsburg” skinny cut jean, while the clothing company Deth Killers, which boasts the tag line, “Practically Guaranteed, Bushwick, Bklyn. New York,” is notorious for cashing in on the style of rival motorcycling clubs from Brooklyn back in the day. Yet at least Deth Killers was born out of a part of Brooklyn culture, even if its now commercial culture. Ralph Lauren, on the other hand, belongs on the runway and Madison Avenue, and has no business tapping into a community that is almost antithetical to its high-fashion image.
After all that, probably the most condescending aspect (yet least surprising) of Denim & Supply is the price tag. I’d like to know who exactly is the customer for Denim & Supply? Surely Ralph Lauren doesn’t expect the actual artists who so inspired this line to be able to afford its price point, especially with one of the cheaper items being a jersey graphic tank for a mere $49.50. Denim & Supply is a line that is sure to thrive in department stores where customers can purchase the Brooklyn artist experience without ever having to cross the bridge or, let’s be honest, the shopping mall parking lot. While the line turns my stomach a bit, it also gives me cause to worry about areas of Brooklyn becoming strip malls themselves if more designers choose to follow in Ralph Lauren’s footsteps.
Art Problems: How Do I Get a Public Art Commission?
Want to leave a mark on your city or town, but don’t know where to start? Paddy Johnson has some tips.
Rose B. Simpson Embeds Ancestral Histories in Clay
She has taken clay and used it to recall its ancestral roots in Pueblo culture and address the present history of postcolonial recovery and ongoing trauma.
Mondays at Pratt Institute: Weekly Openings of Work by Graduating Artists
Free and open to the public, Pratt Shows celebrate the school’s graduating students. MFA and BFA work on view this spring in Brooklyn, New York.
Quiet Paintings at a Time of Sensory Overload
Where Kim Mikyung’s process suggests an obsessive burrowing into the self, Kim Hyung-dae casts his gaze upward and outward into the sky.
Is the “Free the Nipple” Movement Too White?
Online representations of the activists lean White and thin, creating an image problem for the movement.
LSU School of Art Grants Highest MFA Stipends in the Southern US
With funded assistantships, full tuition waivers, and generous stipends, Louisiana State University helps students lay the groundwork for a successful lifelong art practice.
New “We ❤️ NYC” Campaign Misses the Mark
The recently unveiled design is meant to live alongside the iconic original and specifically address the city, but New Yorkers are not happy.
1,000+ Objects at The Met Linked to Antiquities Smugglers
A report by the International Consortium of Investigative Journalists revealed hundreds of works once owned by people accused of or convicted of antiquities crimes.
School of the Art Institute of Chicago Offers Summer Art and Design Courses Online and On-Campus
Emerging and established artists can choose from over 50 Adult Continuing Education courses at one of the most influential art and design schools in the US.
Lunar Bead Necklace and Asteroid “Emoji” Head to Auction
Christie’s bizarre sale features other space rocks propped up on stands like sculptures.
Scientists Create the First Full Brain Map of a Fly
The achievement is a giant step toward understanding human neural networks.
IDSVA Offers a Non-Studio PhD in Visual Arts: Philosophy, Aesthetics, and Art Theory
With no campus, the Institute for Doctoral Studies in the Visual Arts is a truly nomadic institution, existing everywhere our students and faculty are.
Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum Closes Over Climate Protest
The institution shuttered in advance of an action planned for the 33rd anniversary of its infamous art heist.
Remembering the Migrants Who Died in US Detention
Artist Jackie Amézquita will lead a caravan of trucks with the names of the deceased to LA sites representing systems of oppression and solidarity for immigrants.
Don’t think that’s the tobacco warehouse. Looks more like the Beard St. Pier in Red Hook.
this might be dumber than that bravo tv show because at least some of us on the show are actually artists.
And all Brooklyn hipsters are “authentic” and original? That’s too rich. Maybe there’s some irony here. From both sides this looks a bit contrived, sorry.
This is a little like YSL making a collection based on the rich hippies (ah, Bohemia!) of 1969. Except of course not nearly as good.
I think you make a good point Eva. But made me wonder how to identify authenticity when it comes to youth culture because it is so equally driven by belonging/following and individuality. I think the impulse to rebel is authentic, in spite of the groupiness and trappings that are embraced to do so. For the most part I think the young people of Brooklyn are just living through the stages of their (mostly) white middleclass lives, seeking meaning and freedom, while the marketplace is close on their heels.
Youth rebellions are short-lived. They shown signs of decay when mainstream companies start cashing in on the imagery. Trouble is that today, the marketplace receives up-to-the-minute information on everyone’s activities via the Internet. Does an anti-mainstream movement have a chance to evolve in depth before it becomes mass-produced?
Yeah, I don’t think so. I don’t think much of anyone’s taken the possibility seriously post-’68. Somehow I think capitalism will destroy itself and find a way to make a ton of money off it.
Yes – and when I meet those artists who say they are FROM “Brooklyn”- but are obviously from Connecticut etc.. it is so cute. SO darn cute. But why not just say you moved there?
That pic with the fake hipsters was taken at the pier at the end of Van Brunt in red Hook.
The next stage will probably be that the area will become popular with rich folks who love to roam in arty areas. Housing will become extremely expensive, so real artists, who actually made the area popular by being there and organizing events, won’t be able to afford staying there.
It’s a world wide phenomena, alas.
Comments are closed.